Wonky pots

[Timo]

Originally Posted by Hollowcell

By the way Timo, did you end up doing the custom job on those knobs you were talking about a while ago?

I ended up taking the knobs off my C to check how easily they could be replaced (cosmeticly, not the whole pots) and it's really easy as they are just half moon shaped pins.

Maybe have little mini-cars for knobs instead of the standard would be cool (maybe not so functional though 8O .

Work in progress. The bumph was fairly elusive on the 'net, regards knobs that is, and most companies are naturally anally retentive about retaining trade 'secrets' about theirs which was a hinderance to an extent, but after loads of digging I've since sourced actual manufacturers directly and am currently in talks with them. It depends on whether they'll allow me to do small runs as a 'prototype' (ie. sets of 32).

And yup, the knobs come off quite easily on the Virus. Sometimes, too easily!

>>Cool! I'd love to have lumberjacker's disease*! * A work-releated injury for lumberjackers. The vibrations of a chainsaw gradually weaken the finger muscles eventually leading to a state that you can't get grip on anything.

Lol, I think it's called Vibration White Finger. Same with those who use pneumatic drills to dig up concrete, or minors who dig for coal using machines while having to push hard on them. Mmm, niiiiiice.

Incidently, I used to hate the playstation joypad which vibrates in your hand from the off.

>>Hmmm......I think the vibrating knobs would have to be a little less powerfull than a chainsaw. Maybe like a small mobile phone buzzer thingy?

Maybe we can hook them up to the power-supply for a buzz, with the knobs being aluminium....

[Timo]

And the pics I received via Access' hardware office/depot, for re-pot'ing:-

This applies to the Indigo v1, so not sure if this is the same as the C series.

[Step 1]
[Step 2]
[Step 3]
[Step 4]
[Step 5]

Disclaimer (purely to cover my own ass):- It'll void your warranty if you do it yourself, so if you don't trust the Virus in your hands get a proper, qualified serviceman to do it for you.

(Otherwise, dive in, but at own risk ).


### UPDATE: LINKS EXPIRED. I HAVE SINCE RE-POTTED THE KNOBS ON THE VIRUS. - YOU CAN FIND A FULL POTTING MASTERCLASS COMPLETE WITH PICTURES: http://infekted.org/virus/showthread.php?t=31443 ###

[Juho L]

Originally Posted by Timo

Lol, I think it's called Vibration White Finger.

The dearest child has many names.

Maybe we can hook them up to the power-supply for a buzz, with the knobs being aluminium.... ;)

That's a brilliant idea! Maybe a switch on the back for switching the buzz on and off. The we would have a nice gag function on the Virus. Just let your friend test your Virus and switch on the buzz. I bet together you laugh long and loud for the 230 volt buzz.

[Timo]

[quote="Juho L"]

Originally Posted by Timo

That's a brilliant idea! Maybe a switch on the back for switching the buzz on and off. The we would have a nice gag function on the Virus. Just let your friend test your Virus and switch on the buzz. I bet together you laugh long and loud for the 230 volt buzz.

... Especially when the guitarist or drummer tries to have a go.

We could wire up the casing too, controlled via a switch, so if anyone tries to put a metal beer-can on the Virus it zaps 'em silly.

A single plastic knob attached to said virus could then allow us to increase the voltage/current while said victim is, er, "attached". An LFO could be connected to the voltage output, so the victim dances in time to the Virus' 64 waveshapes. ....And a tempo knob that goes up to 400bpm.

[jasedee]

Originally Posted by Timo

A single plastic knob attached to said virus could then allow us to increase the voltage/current while said victim is, er, "attached". An LFO could be connected to the voltage output, so the victim dances in time to the Virus' 64 waveshapes. ....And a tempo knob that goes up to 400bpm.

LMAO!!!!!!! Nice one

[grs]

Originally Posted by Timo

And the pics I received via Access' hardware office/depot, for re-pot'ing:-

This applies to the Indigo v1, so not sure if this is the same as the C series.

[Step 1]
[Step 2]
[Step 3]
[Step 4]
[Step 5]

Disclaimer (purely to cover my own ass):- It'll void your warranty if you do it yourself, so if you don't trust the Virus in your hands get a proper, qualified serviceman to do it for you.

(Otherwise, dive in, but at own risk ).

I gues there are no photos of the actual repotting procedure, that was what I was expecting to see. Did they mention the part numbers or supplier? I'm going to need to replace my pot to sell my b for the TI :P

[Timo]

Originally Posted by grs

I gues there are no photos of the actual repotting procedure, that was what I was expecting to see. Did they mention the part numbers or supplier? I'm going to need to replace my pot to sell my b for the TI :P

Mailed them yesterday, and got a reply today:-

All pots are 10Kohm linear.

Took my Indigo apart today, just to assess how difficult it was to get to the PCBs (circuit boards) that house the pots.

Took out the keybed: Without keys

Then detached the chassis and the end-cheeks: "Dashboard"

It was then pretty hectic, as there are countless layers before you got to the pots, including four or five ribbon cables that needed to be logged (so you know how to correctly put them back) before disconnecting them. Once you've taken the chassis and end-cheeks off, you've basically got the whole of the electronics of the Virus underneath the knobs, in two layers, so the PCB which house the potentiometers are obviously the deepest thing to get to.

Underside of the dashboard

..... admittedly that pic may be a little confusing, so I placed a few coloured boxes around several parts so it would be easier to understand:-

Underside of the dashboard - labelled

* Red = a floating/hovering PCB that piggy backs onto the back of the main PCB board.
* Green = the mainboard (which houses the pots)
* Blue = the pitch/mod wheels

So after removing the piggy-backed board, then the mainboard from the dashboard/chassis, it looks something a little like this:-

Virus internals - Those who are squeamish, look away now.

Not a pleasant sight (although immense care was taken), but that is the disassembly required to get to the main circuit board.

The main board which houses the pots is shown at the top. The circuit board to the left flips over and piggy-backs on the back of the main board, so you have to fully remove this one before getting to the mainboard. The mainboard then needs to be unscrewed from the front of the Virus "dashboard" (remembering to take off all the knob-caps), as well as the rear of the Virus (where the audio and MIDI connections are.

So finally, the pots are shown here.

And the underside of the PCB is shown here.

...The box I've highlighted in red shows the 'footprint' of a pot, as one example, on the underside, which will require a good soldering technique and a steady hand to avoid shorting connections with regards to the four close legs.

When I do it for real, once I have the relevant components and tools, I'll take better shots with my camera, in a more fluid sequence too, so it's easier to follow. Today I was just assessing what roughly needed to be done.

Timo

[tranzash]

Thanks for the pics man

[grs]

Good work. I might like to ask if you have or are going to attempt your re-potting. Then show us some pics. I'm really messy with a soldering iron, stuff never looks the same after I've been inside some equipment, even though I get the job done.

[DIGITAL SCREAMS]

Great pics...interesting.

It does seem quite an effort to get to those pots though. How long it take you?

DS